"Pool Leak Detection Experts"  

Call David Baker 713-805-7049
     View our other site
www.TexasLeak.com


 Welcome to Brian's  Alternate website http://www.PoolLeakDetectionExperts.com 
 for the
Pool Leak Detection Experts at www.TexasLeak.com with  Information About Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about swimming pools and spas.   DJBaker56@comcast.net

 Don't let a pool leak drain upon your finances.
A small leak from your pool can add up to big dollars spent on repairs on both your pool and your home. See our information on understand your pool leaks in the table below.


Important words found on this site.  Swimming Pool & Spa Leak Detection Experts David Baker and Chris Jones Can Repair, Pools, Service, Pumps, Motors, Salt  Systems, Waterfalls, Concrete Tanks, Fiberglass Structures, 713-805-7049,  281.638.2767.  In Ground or Above Ground Pools, Reasonable Prices,  Prompt Service, Experienced Experts, Chemical Applications, Water Conservation, Meter Inspectors, Commercial, Residential, Backwashing, Valve Positions, Members of the  IPSSA Service Association
Contact information for this Website:
Brian Nelson
Webpage Marketing Consultant 

31 Gessner Rd. ,  Houston, TX 77024
713-467-3025  

Click: E-mail me

You can find this site again  by typing in the  Google search engine  the unique word " 1kaeLlooP "  which is  OR "  PoolLeak1  " backwards.
Original Website Article Word Count  258
Alternate 21,759 4-17-07.  MSW 1,527

In Ground or Above Ground Pools, Reasonable Prices,  Prompt Service, Experienced Experts, Chemical Applications, Water Conservation, Meter Inspectors, Commercial, Residential, Backwashing, Valve Positions, Members of the  IPSSA Service Association

Important words found on this site.  Swimming Pool & Spa Leak Detection Experts David Baker and Chris Jones Can Repair, Pools, Service, Pumps, Motors, Salt  Systems, Waterfalls, Concrete Tanks, Fiberglass Structures, 713-805-7049,  281-253-2545.

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Click Brian Nelson's www.PartyTentCity.com for party tents, canopies and awnings. Today's Sale 26'x40' Tarp.   Silver. Regular price is $104.00. With this ad it is on sale for only $88.00. Shipping is $15. No charge for shipping if tarp is picked up at  31 Gessner Rd.  in Houston, TX  77024  Use PayPal to Brian@NelsonIdeas.com or Call Brian 713-467-3025.  
Blue Box 1 Contact Brian at 31 Gessner Rd. Houston, TX  77024 Tel. 713-467-3025 Cell 713-927-4479 Click: E-mail me 
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Blue Box 2  Brian Nelson

 Do you need a party tent of white or silver tarp? Go to www.PartyTentCity.com or to see all my links go to:  http://www.PartyTentCity.com/PTC/Websites.html

Today's  special sale: Business is slow. Call me right now while this include page is up and get a 23% discount off any www.PartyTentCity.com  order.  No charge for shipping if picked up at  31 Gessner Rd.  in Houston, TX  77024 Use PayPal to Brian@NelsonIdeas.com or Call Brian 713-467-3025. http://www.NelsonIdeas.com/Directory-All-Websites/Alphabetical.html
Blue Box 2  Bookmark this page now!  
Contact Brian at 31 Gessner Rd. Houston, TX  77024 Tel. 713-467-3025 Cell 713-927-4479
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You are at: http://www.PoolLeakDetectionExperts.com     ud 09/12/2009 11:09 AM -0500  Bookmark this page now!

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 View our main site www.TexasLeak.com
A small leak from your pool can add up to big dollars spent on repairs on both your pool and your home.  You can lose money in higher water bills, extra chemicals needed, stress to pool equipment, and underground erosion.

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Call us today to help you fix your problems. 713-805-7049 or 281-840-9701
 David Baker  You can email me at 
DJBaker56@comcast.net
 

Click here to see our certificate of liability insurance.

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Leak Detections. We perform a full leak detection on your pool to ensure that we find all leaks.  We pressure test the lines at 20 P.S.I. and use advanced ultrasound and helium equipment to pin point  your problem. Our company  offers a full range of services from plaster repair to new equipment installation. We also do conversions to salt systems which saves you time and money.  Please contact us with your specific question. We Look forward to exceeding your expectations.
Owned and Operated by David Baker  713-805-7049

Our company was established in  1985.  We have successfully served the needs of our customers in Houston and surrounding areas for 21 years.  We maintain 125 residential pools through Mediterranean Pools as well as a full service repair division. Our goal is to keep the fun in your aquatic  recreations and leave the worries to us. We are members of IPSSA Houston Chapter. IPSSA helps you  feel comfortable with who is in your backyard by being the Gateway to both pool and spa professionals. Formed in  1988,  they represent the best most trained reliable companies available. See the membership directory below.

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Click Brian Nelson's www.PartyTentCity.com for party tents, canopies and awnings. Today's Sale 26'x40' Tarp.   Silver. Regular price is $104.00. With this ad it is on sale for only $88.00. Shipping is $15. No charge for shipping if tarp is picked up at  31 Gessner Rd.  in Houston, TX  77024  Use PayPal to Brian@NelsonIdeas.com or Call Brian 713-467-3025.  
Blue Box 1 Contact Brian at 31 Gessner Rd. Houston, TX  77024 Tel. 713-467-3025 Cell 713-927-4479 Click: E-mail me 
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Your pool will naturally lose some water to evaporation, some to splashout and some to backwash wastewater. You may also gain water from rainfall. My rule of thumb is that if you're routinely adding more than two inches of water to your pool per week, you may have a leak. (that is worth spending some time and money to repair)

Pools are meant to be watertight, of course, but sealants will deteriorate, while other parts of your pool shift and settle, or just plain wear out. Pools can leak through any of the fittings or accessories, plumbing or even right through the shell. It is important to repair leaks, not only to save water, heat and chemicals, but also to prevent undermining pool structural components, and washing away fill dirt.

Leak detection is a highly specialized branch of the industry.

If you suspect a leak; look at the following things before calling for service:

  • Is the pool leaking only with the equipment on? This may indicate a pressure side (return) leak. With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the pressure side is...under pressure. This can open up small drips into spraying gushers. Check the waste or backwash line for water running all the time. One inch of your pool water can equal 500 gallons.
  • Is the pool leaking only with the equipment off? This usually indicates a suction side leak. With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the suction side is under vacuum; air can be drawn in through otherwise leaking voids. You may notice air in the pump basket (if you have a clear lid), air bubbling out of the return lines or air repeatedly built up inside the filter tank. Use tape or a pencil to mark water levels. Is the pump basket lid on tight with a good, lubed o-ring?
  • Does the pool leak all the time? This does not rule out leaks in the plumbing, but turns a suspicious eye on the shell of the pool, looking for cracks in the plaster or tears in the vinyl. Look closely at the tile line, and look real closely inside of the skimmer(s). The most common leak we fix is a separation between the plastic skimmer and the concrete pool. This is easily fixed with some pool putty. If you see something that looks like a crack, drop some of your pH indicator test reagent near it with pump shut off and water still. See if the dye is sucked into the crack.
  • Under water lights can and do leak. Especially the conduit that runs from the light niche to the junction box. Filling the opening of the conduit, in the back of the light niche with putty, silicone or caulk is a way to fix this problem.
  • Are there leaks at the equipment pad? Look closely at the filter, pump, heater and valving. Check the ground for moisture. Turn the pump on and off, looking closely for spraying water when the pump is turned off.
  • Does the water seem to stabilize at any particular level? You may be able to close the skimmer valve and allow the water level to drop below the skimmer. If it keeps going, we can rule out the skimmer (although there can always be more than one leak). The underwater light is a common leak source. If the water stabilizes, dye test around this level very carefully. Look for small debris which may have been sucked into the crack or void. This is a good indication of a leak.
  • Are there any wet areas around the pool? Take a walk around the pool's edge, and between the pool and the equipment pad. Check for wet soil and eroded areas.
  • Is your pool a vinyl liner? If so, there are special considerations. Look for sinkholes where sand under the liner may have washed away. Look for tears or separations around all fittings: skimmer, returns, cleaner line, etc. Pay close attention to steps and corners, where the liner may be stretched more than normal. If an animal had the misfortune to fall in your pool, you may notice claw marks (tears) just below the water line. Spending time under water with a mask may be required to find a small leak in the liner. When liners become old, they may have many pinhole leaks. There can always be more than one leak

Unsure of your evaporation rate? Place a bucket of water beside the pool and mark both. After 24 hours, check the loss of both. If the pool loses more, then there's a leak.

Prices for leak detection and repair will vary widely. Of course charges will be lower with your help uncovering the facts (see above) needed to determine the leaks location. . Higher prices will be realized for below ground work, however many leaks are fixed within one hour. Many pools leak in more than one area, so monitoring is important after any repair is made. There may be additional charges for cutting & replacing concrete and for SCUBA work.

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Pool and Spa Leak Detection
 

Even minor swimming pool leak can cause substantial damage and result in huge water bills and it is estimated that one pool in every 20 has a leak.

Just how serious can a leak become? A pinhole-sized leak in a pool plumbing system with 40-pound pressure (psi) will lose approximately 970 gallons of water in a 24-hour period. This comes to about 30,000 gallons a month or 360,000 gallons per year. That's enough to drain and refill the average residential swimming pool more than a dozen times.

In addition to an astronomical water bill, there are other warning signs of hidden leaks in pools and spas. Among them are a loss of one-eighth inch or more of water in a 24 hour period, algae formation too soon after chemical treatment, loose or falling tiles, pool deck cracks, gaps and cracks in the pool shell, a settling of the whole pool or spa structure into the ground or constantly damp soil surrounding the pool and/or under the house.

Another leak indicator might be a letter from your neighbor's attorney advising you that your leaking pool is destroying their foundation.

Many people believe that water loss in a pool or spa is due to evaporation instead of a leak. If you are among these believers, here's a neat trick that will help solve the mystery. Place a bucket on the top step of the pool and fill it with water to the pool's water level. After a day, if the water level in the pool is lower than the bucket, there probably is a leak in the pool structure or plumbing system.

To further detect whether the cause is the structure or the plumbing system, measure the water loss with the pump running for 24 hours and again with the pump off. If more water is lost when the pump is running, the plumbing is probably the cause.

Thanks to state-of-the-art technology, most pool or spa leaks can be found and repaired without major disruption or the need to take out a second mortgage. Sophisticated detection equipment along with a qualified technician can find even the smallest leak - one the size of a pinhead.

The latest in high-tech leak detection equipment uses a special television camera that is snaked through plumbing pipes to spot leaks. The camera delivers a clear picture on a video screen showing the problem while a transmitter located in the camera head pinpoints its location. Although this system is used primarily for sewer and drain leak detection, it is also used to detect leaks in swimming pool pipes.

Another modern means of detecting leaks below concrete pool decking or in pool walls is a supersensitive microphone. By injecting air or inert gas into a pipe, then listening electronically for sounds of air or gas escaping, the technician can precisely locate the leak. Once the location has been determined, the repair can be made with minimal damage, often in an area as small or smaller than one square foot.

When a television camera or sound won't do the trick, air can save the day. With this method, compressed air is used to pressurize a pipe. The air displaces the water in the pipe until it reaches the leak, at which point bubbles escape from the hole to reveal the problem area. Or, where a pipe fails to maintain a constant air pressure, a leak exists.

A not-so-new method of detecting cracks in a pool structure is the use of dye. The key to this method is to monitor the flow of the dye in the water. Once a leak has been found in a pool wall it can be repaired with an epoxy or high-pressure injection system that will fill even microscopic fissures along the entire length of a crack. Many of these techniques can be performed even while the pool is full of water-another water saver.

 

Swimming Pool & Spa Leak Detection Experts David Baker and Chris Jones Can Repair, Pools, Service, Pumps, Motors, Salt  Systems, Waterfalls, Concrete Tanks, Fiberglass Structures, 713-805-7049,  281-253-2545.
 View our main site www.TexasLeak.com

You may have a pool leak if:

  • Pool has air in the system
  • Equipment loses prime
  • You see cracks
  • Pool deck is sinking or lifting
  • There are soggy spots around the pool
  • You add water more than once a week
  • Pool loses more than regular evaporation
  • The "Bucket Test" will determine if water loss in a pool is due to evaporation or a leak:
    1. Bring pool water to normal level.
    2. Fill bucket with pool water to about one inch from top.
    3. Place bucket on first or second step of pool.
    4. Mark water level on inside of bucket.
    5. Shut off pump and mark pool level on outside of bucket.
    6. Resume normal pump operation.
    7. After 24 hours, compare the two levels. If the pool water (outside mark) goes down more than the inside water level, there is probably a leak
 
In Ground or Above Ground Pools, Reasonable Prices,  Prompt Service, Experienced Experts, Chemical Applications, Water Conservation, Meter Inspectors, Commercial, Residential, Backwashing, Valve Positions, Members of the  IPSSA Service Association
 Leak Specialist

Meter Test

  1. This test should be conducted for a 30 minute period, during which time no water is being used on the property.
  2. Find your water meter, which is usually located in front of the house in a covered box near the street.
  3. Write down the numbers indicated on the meter at the start of this test.
  4. Return to check the meter reading after 30 minutes have passed.
  5. If the numbers have not changed, you do not have a leak in your pressurized water system. If the numbers have changed, continue with the following steps.
  6. Shut off the valves under all toilets in the house, and repeat steps 1-4.
  7. If the numbers have not changed, you may have a running toilet that should be serviced.
  8. If the numbers have changed, this indicates water consumption even though water was not being used during the test, and you may need a leak detection.
 View our main site www.TexasLeak.com
Call us today to help you fix your problems. 713-805-7049  David Baker,  You can email me at  waynettebaker@comcast.net
Check for Leaks After Earthquakes and Aftershocks
 

In Ground or Above Ground Pools, Reasonable Prices,  Prompt Service, Experienced Experts, Chemical Applications, Water Conservation, Meter Inspectors, Commercial, Residential, Backwashing, Valve Positions, Members of the  IPSSA Service Association

Check for Leaks After Earthquakes and Aftershocks.

When there's an earthquake, underground pipes in the home shift and move.

The same is true with the plumbing for swimming pools. When pipes move, that's when there's a potential danger for water and gas leaks. And if they are left untreated not only are leaks hazardous to your health but hazardous to property. So it's important for homeowners to check for leaks after earthquakes and aftershocks.

  1. Homeowners should know the location of all emergency shut off valves, including gas and water.
  2. Make sure the main house shut off valve is in good working order. A failed shut off valve will not stop the water flow.
  3. All shut off valves should be tagged so they are easy to find. As you go over the emergency plan with family members, everyone should know how to turn these valves off. In the event of an earthquake, you should turn off these main valves until it can be determined that there are no leaks in the gas or water lines.

After an earthquake, how to tell if you have a leak:

The first and easiest way to tell if you have a leak is to listen for water running.

  • Do you hear water running when everything is turned off?
  • Does your water meter continue to spin when everything is turned off?
  • Have you noticed a hot spot underneath the floor? Are your animals suddenly sleeping in new areas of the home? (They like the warmth generated by a hot water pipe leak!)
  •  
  • Is your pool losing water?
  • And if your next water bill or gas bill is higher than normal, there most likely is an undetected leak.

Leak problems may also take some time to develop so continued weekly followup should happen during the weeks following an earthquake.

Homeowner's Insurance:

  • Be sure and find out if you have earthquake coverage with your homeowner insurance company. If you don't, any related structural or water damage caused to the home may not be covered.
  • Most homeowners have basic insurance that covers the home, but not a blanket policy that includes a swimming pool or anything outside the walls of the house. Without a blanket policy, the insurance company may not pay for repairs to the pool deck, underground plumbing, or pool structure.
Owned and Operated by David Baker DavidJBaker@Comcast.net

Our company was established in  1985.  We have successfully served the needs of our customers in Houston and surrounding areas for 21 years.  We maintain 125 residential pools through Mediterranean Pools as well as a full service repair division. Our goal is to keep the fun in your aquatic  recreations and leave the worries to us. We are members of IPSSA Houston Chapter. IPSSA helps you  feel comfortable with who is in your backyard by being the Gateway to both pool and spa professionals. Formed in  1988,  they represent the best most trained reliable companies available.

Frequently Asked Questions About Pools and Spas

Q. My pool company does a great job each week, but my pool seems to get so dirty before their next visit.
A. Without knowing your pool and all it's features and surroundings I will just answer this question in general. Between service visits you should only have to keep your pool's water at the proper level (middle of your skimmer's opening.)

A. First, identify what kind of debris your pool is mostly getting.

A. If you have a lot of trees or flowery plants in the area of your pool, you may find it necessary to keep your skimmer baskets from getting full between your pool service visits. Full skimmer baskets can slow the water's circulation and may no longer skim any additional debris from the pools surface. If you are getting alot of this kind of debris it is most probably from trees or plants that are directly over the pool or deck. Most all trees and plants drop their debris straight down, so trimming your landscaping from hanging over your pool area will go a very long way in helping to keep your pool clean.

A. If your getting more dirt than leaves in your pool take a look at your landscaping. Directly around your pool you should not have any loose landscaping that's not protected from going in the pool. Your pool deck should always be higher than your landscaping and slightly slant down away from your pool. Even if your pool's deck is higher than your landscaping around the pool ask yourself if there is any potential of this landscaping flooding during rain and washing into the pool.

A. If these observations do not help you, consult an ipssa pool professional. There is a wide range of cleaning equipment that attaches to most pools to help keep pools clean all week long.

Q. My pool water gets so warm during the summer months, how can I keep the water cooler?
A. Keep in mind that the pool keeps it's temperature not just from the sun and heat but also from the ground temperature that surrounds your pool. Of course a shaded pool remains the coolest even during the summer months, but trees that provide shade also provide lots of debris that become a constant chore to keep clean, both in and out of the pool.

A. There are new water coolers on the market that work much like a home A/C unit and they cool your pools water. You can consult one of the IPSSA Pool Professionals if your interested in this option. Outside of installing a cooler for your pool we can only offer a temporary solution.

A. Ice is a convienent solution to those who want temporary relief. We only recommend crushed ice or bagged ice and that you make sure you break up any larger pieces and let the ice melt before swimming. The larger the pieces the lower the surface area and the slower it will cool your pool. Also, larger pieces of ice, especially block ice, can be hazardous to someone jumping, diving or swimming in the pool. Ice can become very sharp as it melts and jumping, diving or swimming into it can be as dangerous as someone throwing it at you. No matter how cool you get your pool, the amount of time it takes your pool to return to it's regular temperature will have a lot to do with the amount of sun, heat and ground temperature that surround your pool.

 

Q. I am losing alot of water in my pool and I seem to be filling it too often?
A. Water loss is often mistaken for water leaks. During the hot Texas summers, expect to lose 1/4" of water per day due to evaporation, and when we experience less humidity and higher temperatures than normal water loss can be even higher. To avoid unnecessary water loss during warmer weather follow these guidelines:

A. Do not keep heater's running longer than needed, of course warmer water evaporates at a higher rate.

A. Keep water features (ie. water falls or sprays) off during normal pool operation, these fixtures increase the amount of water surface area exposed to evaporation.

A. Keep all circulation operating properly. Uncirculated water will remain near the surface allowing more evaporation, while the cooler water will remain closest to the bottom of your pool.

A. Kids will be kids and more water loss will occur with big splashes or "rocking" the pool's water as they play.

A. Higher than normal swimming loads (swimmers getting in and out of the water) and and will cause a water loss. Be ready to replace the lost water after a party.

 

Q. I have air bubbles continually coming out of my return lines, but i don't seem to be losing water?
A. This is an indication of a suction side plumbing problem. It is best to have this problem checked out thoroughly. For starters, remove pump lid and check that o-ring, lid, and o-ring seat are all in good condition, properly lubricated and making a good seal. If there is no air leaking at the pump basket, the leak is probably originating between the skimmer and the plumbing going to the pump basket. For further diagnosis you will have to contact a pool professional qualified to detect leaks with special equipment. Keep in mind that air getting to the pump may cause the pump to lose it's prime and possibly run dry and over-heat.

 

Pool Care

Filter Maintenance
D.E. Filters - backwash 1/month* or 5-7psi raise, clean 1/year
Sand Filters - backwash weekly* or 5-7psi raise
Cartridge Filters - large filters 1/year, medium filters 1/quarter, small(spa) bi-weekly

*If needed more frequently, then filter needs to be cleaned down.
NEVER ATTEMPT TO OPEN FILTER LID UNTIL
ALL POWER IS TURNED OFF AND
ALL PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED FROM TANK.

 

Backwashing
Multi-port Valve turn off motor at main power, open backwash drain valve if there is one, turn valve to backwash position and turn motor back on, watch sight glass until water becomes clear. Turn motor off and move valve to rinse position, turn motor back on and watch sight glass until water becomes clear. Turn motor off and move valve back to filter position. Turn motor back on and relieve any air in filter. (D.E. filters MUST have D.E. replaced immediately after turning motor back on.) Note the filter's psi.
Push Pull Valve - Turn off motor at main power, open valve to backwash position and turn motor back on, watch sight glass until water becomes clear. Turn motor off and replace valve back to filter position. Turn motor back on and relieve any air in the filter. (D.E. filters MUST have D.E. replaced immediately after turning motor back on.) Note filter psi.

 

Valve Positions
Filter - Normal pool operation - Water flows from pump, through filter and back to pool.
Backwash - Used to backwash - Water flows from the pump, through through the filter (in opposite direction as filter position,) and out to backwash line. On D.E. filters the D.E. must be replaced after using this position (following above directions.)
Rinse - Used to rinse plumbing before turning back to the filter position. - Water flows same as filter position except water flows to backwash line.
Waste - Used to drain water level or vacuum heavy debris straight to the drain to avoid sending dirt to filter.
Re-circulate - Used to re-circulate water from the pump back to pool without sending water through the filter.
Closed - Used when system is drained and winterized. NEVER use this position with pump on.

In Ground or Above Ground Pools, Reasonable Prices,  Prompt Service, Experienced Experts, Chemical Applications, Water Conservation, Meter Inspectors, Commercial, Residential, Backwashing, Valve Positions, Members of the  IPSSA Service Association

 

Region 9 - Texas and Florida
Greg Donoho, Director
512-353-4982
www.ipssatexas.com
CHAPTER MEETINGS PRESIDENT
Austin First Tuesday, 6:00 p.m.
Austin Energy Club
721 Barton Springs Road
Room TLC130
Frank Berlanga Jr.
512-563-9971
Corpus Christi First Thursday, 6:30 p.m.
Hooters Family Restaurant
4551 S. Padre Island Drive
Brian Doggett
361-949-8899

Dallas

Fourth Tuesday, 6:30 p.m.
Willow Falls Clubhouse
13603 Brookgreen Dr (at Coit Rd)
Dallas
Lance Rust
972-429-4232
 
Fort Worth
 
Third Tuesday, 7:00 p.m.
La Playa Maya Restaurant
1540 N. Main Street
Fort Worth
Jason S. Bonser
817-605-0194
Houston Second Tuesday, 7:00 p.m.
I-HOP
Katy Freeway, Kirkwood exit
Houston
Jim Jacobsmeyer
281-474-7665
San Antonio First Monday, 6:30 p.m.
Clear Springs Restaurant
Loop 1604 at Aston Oaks Blvd.
San Antonio
Phil Sharp
210-673-2909
Cape Coral First Tuesday, 6:00 p.m.
Horner Express
1126 S.E. 12th Court
Cape Coral
Ira Worsham
239-839-7665
Gold Coast
(Ft. Lauderdale & surrounding areas)
Second Tuesday, 6:30 p.m.
The Pool Pros Supply
4911 Lyons Technology Parkway #16
Coconut Beach
David Fishman
754-235-2035
Manasota
(Sarasota/Bradenton)
First Monday, 7:00 p.m.
D'Artino's
7230 52nd Place
Bradenton
Todd Starner
941-915-2134
Osceola
(Orlando/Kissimmee)
Second Wednesday, 6:30 p.m.
Fat Boy's Restaurant
2512 13th Street
St. Cloud
Derric Raymond
407-908-4555

About IPSSA

 

IPSSA IS THE INDEPENDENT POOL AND SPA SERVICE ASSOCIATION

WITH MORE THAN 3600 MEMBERS NATIONWIDE.

CHOOSING A AN IPSSA COMPANY IN YOUR AREA WILL GIVE YOU ONE OF THE BEST, MOST TRAINED AND RELIABLE COMPANIES AVAILABLE.

History of IPSSA

The Independent Pool and Spa Service Association, Inc. was formed in 1988 as a result of a merger between I.P.S.A. and CalIPSA. Those two organizations were a part of the original association founded in 1961 for the purpose of pool service technicians banning together to help each other in times of illness or disability.

 

Mission of IPSSA

IPSSA exist for the continual education and sick route coverage of its members. We also aide in the growth of our members and for the continued improvement of the pool and spa service industry's image.

Member's Code of Ethics

Members of IPSSA will utilize professional knowledge and skilled practical workmanship in providing quality customer service. To that end, it is our responsibility to keep informed of developments in the pool and spa industry including new techniques and product applications.

Members are also responsible to the community and its citizens. We strive as an organization to communicate the necessity for pool safety and other issues of importance to pool and spa owners.

Important words found on this site.  Swimming Pool & Spa Leak Detection Experts David Baker, Can Repair, Pools, Service, Pumps, Motors, Salt  Systems, Waterfalls, Concrete Tanks, Fiberglass Structures, 713-805-7049,  281-8409701.  In Ground or Above Ground Pools, Reasonable Prices,  Prompt Service, Experienced Experts, Chemical Applications, Water Conservation, Meter Inspectors, Commercial, Residential, Backwashing, Valve Positions, Members of the  IPSSA Service Association
City List: Texas Over 6000  Residents.
Abilene  (pop. 115,930)
Addison  (pop. 14,166)
Alamo (pop. 14,760)
Alamo Heights  (pop. 7,319)
Aldine (pop. 13,979)
Alice (pop. 19,010)
Allen  (pop. 43,554)
Alvin (pop. 21,413)
Amarillo  (pop. 173,627)
Anderson Mill (pop. 8,953)
Andrews  (pop. 9,652)
Angleton  (pop. 18,130)
Aransas Pass  (pop. 8,138)
Arlington  (pop. 332,969)
Atascocita (pop. 35,757)
Athens  (pop. 11,297)
Austin  (pop. 656,562)
Azle  (pop. 9,600)
Bacliff  (pop. 6,962)
Balch Springs (pop. 19,375)
Bay City (pop. 18,667)
Baytown  (pop. 66,430)
Beaumont  (pop. 113,866)
Bedford  (pop. 47,152)
Beeville (pop. 13,129)
Bellaire (pop. 15,642)
Bellmead  (pop. 9,214)
Belton  (pop. 14,623)
Benbrook  (pop. 20,208)
Big Spring  (pop. 25,233)
Boerne  (pop. 6,178)
Bonham  (pop. 9,990)
Borger  (pop. 14,302)
Brenham  (pop. 13,507)
Bridge City (pop. 8,651)
Brownfield (pop. 9,488)
Brownsville  (pop. 139,722)
Brownwood  (pop. 18,813)
Brushy Creek (pop. 15,371)
Bryan  (pop. 65,660)
Burkburnett  (pop. 10,927)
Burleson (pop. 20,976)
Canyon  (pop. 12,875)
Canyon Lake  (pop. 16,870)
Carrollton  (pop. 109,576)
Carthage  (pop. 6,664)
Cedar Hill  (pop. 32,093)
Cedar Park  (pop. 26,049)
Channelview (pop. 29,685)
Childress  (pop. 6,778)
Cinco Ranch (pop. 11,196)
Cleburne  (pop. 26,005)
Cleveland (pop. 7,605)
Cloverleaf (pop. 23,508)
Clute  (pop. 10,424)
College Station  (pop. 67,890)
Colleyville (pop. 19,636)
Commerce  (pop. 7,669)
Conroe (pop. 36,811)
Converse  (pop. 11,508)
Coppell  (pop. 35,958)
Copperas Cove  (pop. 29,592)
Corinth (pop. 11,325)
Corpus Christi  (pop. 277,454)
Corsicana  (pop. 24,485)
Crockett  (pop. 7,141)
Crowley (pop. 7,467)
Crystal City (pop. 7,190)
Cuero (pop. 6,571)
Dalhart (pop. 7,237)
Dallas  (pop. 1,188,580)
DeSoto (pop. 37,646)
Deer Park (pop. 28,520)
Del Rio  (pop. 33,867)
Denison  (pop. 22,773)
Denton  (pop. 80,537)
Dickinson  (pop. 17,093)
Donna (pop. 14,768)
Dumas (pop. 13,747)
Duncanville (pop. 36,081)
Eagle Mountain (pop. 6,599)
Eagle Pass (pop. 22,413)
Edinburg  (pop. 48,465)
Eidson Road (pop. 9,348)
El Campo  (pop. 10,945)
El Paso  (pop. 563,662)
Ennis  (pop. 16,045)
Euless  (pop. 46,005)
Fabens (pop. 8,043)
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Forest Hill (pop. 12,949)
Fort Bliss  (pop. 8,264)
Fort Hood (pop. 33,711)
Fort Stockton  (pop. 7,846)
Fort Worth  (pop. 534,694)
Fredericksburg  (pop. 8,911)
Freeport (pop. 12,708)
Fresno (pop. 6,603)
Friendswood (pop. 29,037)
Frisco  (pop. 33,714)
3)

 
Gainesville  (pop. 15,538)
Galena Park  (pop. 10,592)
Galveston  (pop. 57,247)
Garland (pop. 215,768)
Gatesville  (pop. 15,591)
Georgetown  (pop. 28,339)
Gladewater  (pop. 6,078)
Glenn Heights (pop. 7,224)
Gonzales  (pop. 7,202)
Graham  (pop. 8,716)
Grand Prairie  (pop. 127,427)
Grapevine  (pop. 42,059)
Greatwood (pop. 6,640)
Greenville  (pop. 23,960)
Groves (pop. 15,73

Haltom City  (pop. 39,018)
Harker Heights  (pop. 17,308)
Harlingen  (pop. 57,564)
Henderson (pop. 11,273)
Hereford (pop. 14,597)
Hewitt  (pop. 11,085)
Hidalgo (pop. 7,322)
Highland Park  (pop. 8,842)
Highland Village  (pop. 12,173)
Highlands (pop. 7,089)
Hillsboro  (pop. 8,232)
Hitchcock (pop. 6,386)
Homestead Meadows South (pop. 6,807)
Hondo  (pop. 7,897)
Houston  (pop. 1,953,631)
Humble  (pop. 14,579)
Huntsville  (pop. 35,078)
Hurst  (pop. 36,273)
Ingleside  (pop. 9,388)
Iowa Park (pop. 6,431)
Irving  (pop. 191,615)
Jacinto City (pop. 10,302)
Jacksonville  (pop. 13,868)
Jasper  (pop. 8,247)
Jersey Village  (pop. 6,880)
Jollyville (pop. 15,813)
Katy  (pop. 11,775)
Kaufman (pop. 6,490)
Keller  (pop. 27,345)
Kerrville  (pop. 20,425)
Kilgore  (pop. 11,301)
Killeen  (pop. 86,911)
Kingsville  (pop. 25,575)
Kirby (pop. 8,673)

La Feria (pop. 6,115)
La Homa (pop. 10,433)
La Marque (pop. 13,682)
La Porte  (pop. 31,880)
Lackland AFB  (pop. 7,123)
Lake Dallas (pop. 6,166)
Lake Jackson (pop. 26,386)
Lakeway  (pop. 8,002)
Lamesa  (pop. 9,952)
Lampasas  (pop. 6,786)
Lancaster  (pop. 25,894)
Laredo  (pop. 176,576)
League City  (pop. 45,444)
Leander (pop. 7,596)
Leon Valley (pop. 9,239)
Levelland (pop. 12,866)
Lewisville  (pop. 77,737)
Liberty  (pop. 8,033)
Littlefield (pop. 6,507)
Live Oak  (pop. 9,156)
Lockhart  (pop. 11,615)
Longview  (pop. 73,344)
Lubbock  (pop. 199,564)
Lufkin  (pop. 32,709)
Lumberton (pop. 8,731)
Mansfield  (pop. 28,031)
Marlin  (pop. 6,628)
Marshall  (pop. 23,935)
McAllen  (pop. 106,414)
McKinney  (pop. 54,369)
Mercedes  (pop. 13,649)
Mesquite  (pop. 124,523)
Mexia  (pop. 6,563)
Midland  (pop. 94,996)
Midlothian (pop. 7,480)
Mineral Wells  (pop. 16,946)
Mission (pop. 45,408)
Mission Bend (pop. 30,831)
Missouri City  (pop. 52,913)
Monahans  (pop. 6,821)
Mount Pleasant (pop. 13,935)
Nacogdoches  (pop. 29,914)
Navasota  (pop. 6,789)
Nederland  (pop. 17,422)
New Braunfels  (pop. 36,494)
New Territory (pop. 13,861)
North Richland Hills  (pop. 55,635)
Odessa  (pop. 90,943)
Orange  (pop. 18,643)
Palestine  (pop. 17,598)
Palmview South (pop. 6,219)
Pampa  (pop. 17,887)
Paris  (pop. 25,898)
Pasadena (pop. 141,674)
Pearland (pop. 37,640)
Pearsall  (pop. 7,157)
Pecan Grove (pop. 13,551)
Pecos  (pop. 9,501)
Perryton (pop. 7,774)
Pflugerville  (pop. 16,335)
Pharr (pop. 46,660)
Plainview (pop. 22,336)
Plano  (pop. 222,030)
Pleasanton (pop. 8,266)
Port Arthur  (pop. 57,755)
Port Lavaca  (pop. 12,035)
Port Neches (pop. 13,601)
Portland (pop. 14,827)

Raymondville (pop. 9,733)
Rendon (pop. 9,022)
Richardson  (pop. 91,802)
Richland Hills (pop. 8,132)
Richmond  (pop. 11,081)
Rio Grande City (pop. 11,923)
River Oaks (pop. 6,985)
Robinson (pop. 7,845)
Robstown (pop. 12,727)
Rockport  (pop. 7,385)
Rockwall  (pop. 17,976)
Roma  (pop. 9,617)
Rosenberg  (pop. 24,043)
Round Rock  (pop. 61,136)
Rowlett  (pop. 44,503)
Sachse (pop. 9,751)
Saginaw (pop. 12,374)
San Angelo  (pop. 88,439)
San Antonio  (pop. 1,144,646)
San Benito  (pop. 23,444)
San Elizario (pop. 11,046)
San Juan  (pop. 26,229)
San Marcos  (pop. 34,733)
Santa Fe (pop. 9,548)
Schertz (pop. 18,694)
Seabrook  (pop. 9,443)
Seagoville (pop. 10,823)
Seguin  (pop. 22,011)
Sherman  (pop. 35,082)
Silsbee (pop. 6,393)
Slaton (pop. 6,109)
Snyder (pop. 10,783)
Socorro (pop. 27,152)
South Houston  (pop. 15,833)
Southlake  (pop. 21,519)
Spring  (pop. 36,385)
Stafford (pop. 15,681)
Stephenville  (pop. 14,921)
Sugar Land  (pop. 63,328)
Sulphur Springs  (pop. 14,551)
Sweetwater (pop. 11,415)
Taylor  (pop. 13,575)
Temple  (pop. 54,514)
Terrell (pop. 13,606)
Texarkana  (pop. 34,782)
Texas City  (pop. 41,521)
The Colony  (pop. 26,531)
The Woodlands  (pop. 55,649)
Tomball  (pop. 9,089)
Trophy Club (pop. 6,350)
Tyler  (pop. 83,650)
Universal City (pop. 14,849)
University Park (pop. 23,324)
Uvalde  (pop. 14,929)
Vernon  (pop. 11,660)
Victoria  (pop. 60,603)
Vidor (pop. 11,440)
Waco  (pop. 113,726)
Watauga (pop. 21,908)
Waxahachie  (pop. 21,426)
Weatherford  (pop. 19,000)
Webster (pop. 9,083)
Wells Branch (pop. 11,271)
Weslaco (pop. 26,935)
West Livingston  (pop. 6,612)
West Odessa (pop. 17,799)
West University Place (pop. 14,211)
Wharton  (pop. 9,237)
White Settlement (pop. 14,831)
Wichita Falls  (pop. 104,197)
Windemere (pop. 6,868)
Woodway (pop. 8,733)
Wylie (pop. 15,132)
A small leak from your pool can add up to big dollars spent on repairs on both your pool and your home.  You can lose money in higher water bills, extra chemicals needed, stress to pool equipment, and underground erosion.
Call us today to help you fix your problems. 713-805-7049 or 281-840-9701
 David Baker You can email me at 
DJBaker56@comcast.net   waynettebaker@comcast.net

Click here to see our certificate of liability insurance.

Leak Detections. We perform a full leak detection on your pool to ensure that we find all leaks.  We pressure test the lines at 20 P.S.I. and use advanced ultrasound and helium equipment to pin point  your problem. Our company  offers a full range of services from plaster repair to new equipment installation. We also do conversions to salt systems which saves you time and money.  Please contact us with your specific question. We Look forward to exceeding your expectations.
Owned and Operated by David Baker 713-805-7049

Our company was established in  1985.  We have successfully served the needs of our customers in Houston and surrounding areas for 21 years.  We maintain 125 residential pools through Mediterranean Pools as well as a full service repair division. Our goal is to keep the fun in your aquatic  recreations and leave the worries to us. We are members of IPSSA Houston Chapter. IPSSA helps you  feel comfortable with who is in your backyard by being the Gateway to both pool and spa professionals. Formed in  1988,  they represent the best most trained reliable companies available.

Home Benefits The IPPSAN Scholarship Fund Calendar Regions & Chapters Associate Members Join IPSSA Merchandise For Members Only Contact Us Caring For Your Pool & Spa Find a Member The Board Links & Resources
 

Mission


The Independent Pool and Spa Service Association, Inc. exists for the mutual professional benefit and growth of its members and for the continued improvement of the pool and spa industry's image.
 

History


IPSSA was formed in 1988 as a result of a merger between IPSA and Cal-IPSA. Those two organizations were a part of the original association founded in 1961 for the purpose of pool service technicians banding together to help each other in times of illness or disability.
 

Code of Ethics


As a member of the Independent Pool and Spa Service Association, Inc., I will utilize my professional knowledge and skilled practical workmanship in providing quality customer service. To that end, it will be my responsibility to keep informed of developments in the pool and spa industry, including new techniques and product applications.

My second obligation will be to IPSSA members by giving them any professional assistance they need, including sick route coverage. In this endeavor, I shall respect their clientele and not encroach upon their routes.

My final responsibility will be to my community and its citizens. I will strive to communicate the necessity for pool safety and other issues of importance to pool and spa owners.

In these ways, I will promote the ideals and objectives of the Independent Pool and Spa Service Association, Inc.
 

Independent Pool and Spa Service Association, Inc.
P.O. Box 15828
Long Beach CA 90815-0828
1-888-360-9505
All Rights Reserved
ipssamail@aol.com

 

 
 
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IPSSA MEMBERS BELOW

Having trouble with your swimming pool or spa click here for helpful hints

AAA Leak Detection Services

 Douglas D. Morehead

Areas: Houston & surrounding

Specialties:  Leaks and Repairs

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

ACE'S Pool Service

Gary Drew Lindsey

Areas: Montgomery, Houston

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Alpha Surface Repair
Jay Grisham

 Areas: Houston & surrounding areas

Specialties: Surface repairs

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA  

American Pool Service, Inc.

Corey D. Metts

Areas: Beaumont

Specialties: Weekly services, Repairs, Remodels

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Aquarian Pools & Spas

Carmine Heitz

Areas:

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Aquatic Dimensions

Clark Collier

 

Areas: Beaumont

Specialties: Weekly services, Repairs, Remodels

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Aquatic Specialists, Inc.

Anton Frapps

Areas: Galveston

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Arbor Springs Pool Care

Spencer Berrett

 

Areas: Galveston

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Atlantic Pools

Thomas Gomez

Areas: Central/NW/W/SW Houston, Katy, Kingwood, Richmond, Sugar Land

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Bayou City Pools

Joe Robinson:

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Brookside Pool Service

Randolph and Rick Brooks

 

Areas: Houston

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

C & G Pool Service

Greg Gibson

Areas: N/Central area, League City

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Clear Water Pool Repair

Brian Caudle

 

Areas: Katy, NW Houston

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Clearwater Pool Service

Edward Mack

Areas: N. Houston, Conroe, Woodlands

Specialties: Weekly services, Repairs

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Competition Pools

Brad Durchholz

Areas: Central/NW/SW Houston, Conroe, Katy

Specialties: Weekly services, Repairs

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Da-Tech

David Palmer

Fax 281-579-7059

 

Areas: Katy

Specialties: Weekly services, Repairs, Pressure washing, CPO

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Dapper Pools

Jason & Shelly Trotter

 

Areas: NW Houston, Kingwood, Conroe

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Duncan's Pool & Spa Service

Duncan Darlin

Areas: NW/W Houston, Katy, Sugar Land, Cypress

Specialties: Weekly services, Repairs, Remodels, CPO

Warranty center: Hayward

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Esposito Pools Inc.

William Esposito

 

Areas: NW/SW/W Houston, Katy

Specialties: Weekly services, Repairs, Re-plaster, Construction, Leak Detection, Heater Repairs, CPO

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Everetts Pools & Spa

Bobby Everett

Areas: Katy, Sugar Land, Memorial, W

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Franks Pool Service

Frank Maier

Areas: SW/W Houston, Katy, Richmond

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

G & L Pool-Scapes

Gary Rossow

 

Areas: Liberty

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Garrett Vinyl Pools, Inc.

Ken E. Garrett

 

Areas: Houston and surrounding areas

Specialties:  Vinyl Liners, Safety Covers, Vinyl liner repairs

Business Affiliations: IPSSA, CPO, and a Member of National Swimming Pool Foundation. Ken E. Garrett is listed in the ASAP 2005 Hall of Fame..

Huntsville Pool & Spa

Steed Smith

 

Areas: Huntsville

Specialties:  Spa, Hot Tubs, Saunas, Decks

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Jamison Pool Care LLC

Jamie Renfroe

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Johnny's Pool Service

Johnny Griffin

 

Areas: Pearland, Friendswood, Bay Area

Specialties: Weekly Services, Supplies, Repairs, Chemical Services, Heater Repairs.

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Katy Pool Service

David Semmel

 

Areas: W/SW Houston, Katy

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Kendall Pool Service

Roger Dendall

 

Areas: Houston and surrounding areas

Specialties: CPO

Warranty center: Jandy, Laars

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Luper's Pool Service

Thomas Luper

Areas: Central Houston

Specialties: Re-construction and Repairs

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

M.A.E. The Pool Magician

Marco Espinoza

 

Areas: NW/SW Houston

Specialties: Weekly Services, Repairs

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Manning Pool Service

Jeff Manning

 

Areas: Houston (excluding Kingwood and Conroe)

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

New Pool Tech

Fermin Olalde

 

Areas: Houston and surrounding areas

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Nix Pool Service

Nick Verburgt

Areas: Houston

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Pat & Dad Pool Service

Walter and Patrick Ramsey

 

Areas: Katy

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Pauley Pools & Spas

Mark Pauley

 

Areas: Central/S Houston

Specialties: Weekly Service, Remodels, Repairs, Spa Packs, Heaters, Electrical Service

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Pineloch Swimming Pool Service

Vincent Griffin

Areas: SE Houston, Clear Lake, Pasadena

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

The Pool Butler

Tony Butler

Areas: W/SW Houston, Katy, Richmond

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Poolmaster

James Flores

 

Areas: N/SW/W Houston, Katy

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Prism Pool, Inc.

Kimberly Cornell Sarver

 

Areas: Central/W/SW Houston, Katy, Sugar Land

Specialties: Weekly Service, Repairs, Re-plaster, Heater installs, Vacation Service, CPO

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Pro Tech Pools, Inc.

Ross Lemex

 

Areas: NW/W/SW Houston, Katy, Richmond

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Reed's Pool Service

Reed Hartzog

 

Areas: W/SW Houston, Sugar Land, Memorial

Specialties:  Weekly Service, Repairs, (pump, filter & heaters), Salt Water Systems, Skimmer replacement, New return lines, equipment, parts and chemical deliveries Warranty center:Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Reflection Pools, Inc.

Randy Peterson

 

Areas:

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

South Pool & Spa

Mike Tello

 

Areas: NW Houston, Kingwood, Conroe

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Spa Inspector

Douglas Dinkins

 

Areas: Houston and surrounding areas

Specialties:  Spas, Jetted Tubs, Jetted Showers

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Splash Services

Lee Parks Pitcock

 

 

Areas: La Porte to Port Bolivar, S. Houston to Surfside,

Sugarland to Sargent

 

Specialties: ” Trained Installer“ Heaters, Controllers, Salt Cl2 Generators, “Veteran” Diagnostics & Repair of most manufactures equip Pool & Spa Maintenance & Chemical Service, Remodeling, Re-plaster, Plumbing & Electrical, Consumer Instruction/Training, Covers, CPO

Warranty center: Jandy, Polaris, Zodiac, Clearwater, Nature2, Barracuda, Pentair, Sta-rite, , Am Prod, Letro, Legend, Kreepy, Hayward, Goldline, RaypakBusiness Affiliations: IPSSA

Stearns Pools & Spas, Inc.

Specialties: Weekly Services, Repairs, Remodeling, Heater Repairs and installs, Tile/Coping, Re-plaster, Plumbing Services, Electrical Services, Instruction/Training, Controllers, CPO Warranty center: Waterpik (Jandy), Pentair, Polaris, Hayward, Raypak, Starite, Goldine, American Products, Letro, Ultrapure, Purex-Triton. 

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

 

Lisa Martens

 

James Stearns III

Areas: Central/SW/W Houston, Ford Bend, Katy

Sunchase Pools & Spas

Jim Jacobsmyer

 

Areas: Clear Lake, Pasadena to Galveston

Specialties: Weekly Services, Repairs, Jandy, Compool, Spa Packs, Heaters

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Superior Leak Detection

Randy Evenson

 

Areas: Galveston, Beaumont, Houston, Austin

Specialties: Electronic Leak Detection, Repairs

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Superior Pool & Spa

Nick Casserly

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Texas Leak Detection

 

David Baker

DJBaker56@comcast.net

 Phone 713-805-7049 or 281.840-9701

 Areas: Houston and all surrounding areas

Specialties:  Hard to locate pool leaks, repairs and maintenance service

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Tile Savers of Texas

Robert Edwards

Areas: Houston and surrounding areas

Specialties:

Warranty center:

Business Affiliations: IPSSA

Ultima Pool Service

James Warner

Areas: Central Houston

Specialties: Weekly Services, Repairs, Supplies, Tile/Coping, Chemical Services, Heater repair and install, Construction Warranty center:
Business Affiliations:
IPSSA

Warner Pool Service

Danny Warner

Areas: Central/NW/W/SW Houston

Specialties: Weekly Services, Repairs, Construction, Supplies, Tile/Coping, Re-plaster, Chemical Service, Plumbing, Heater repairs and installs, Decks

Wet-Tech

Greg Moore

Areas: Central/SW/N/W Houston, Katy, Kingwood, Conroe, Richmond

BRUSHING THE WALLS, FLOORS, STEPS, BENCHES, AND LOVESEATS

The pool interior surface cures 60 percent in the first 30 days and the balance of the cure continues for the next 10 to 12 months.
You will be responsible for brushing the pool/spa surface and balancing the pool/spa water. The beauty and health of your pool, plaster is dependent on proper and timely performance of these tasks.

The pool should be brushed two times a day for the first tow weeks, beginning as the pool is completely filled with water. We recommend the brushings continue until all loose material from the curing plaster is removed from the surface. Do not operate the pool cleaner for at least two weeks after your pool is started up because the wheels will leave track marks on the new uncured Interior surface. The filtration system should run 24 hours a day until the pool water is balanced. Excessive amounts of loose material on the pool surface may require hand vacuuming for faster removal. Vacuuming this. Loose material will normally result in pressure build up in the filter and may need backwashing to clean the pool filter.
Without proper brushing, the plaster will develop a rough sandpaper-like texture and discoloration from standing material, dirt and debris.
BRUSHING PROCEDURES
NOTE: You will find during the first two (2) weeks after the pool is filled, that the pool filter pressure will increase as the plaster dust is being removed from the pool/spa. This is normal and will require backwashing of the pool filter. When the filter pressure gets 5# greater than normal, you will need to backwash your pool filter. (See backwashing procedures)
A.  Brushing Pool
1.  Close both the nears and far skimmer valves.
2. Brush all steps, love seats, swim outs, walls and floor to the pool main drain.
3. Re-open the two (2) skimmers near and far valves.
B. Brushing Spa
NOTE: As you perform these steps you will notice that the water level of the spa is going down. This is to be expected.
1. Place the primary suction valve (pool/spa) in spa mode.
2. Close spa fountain valve to reduce surface movement.
3. Leave the primary return valve (pool/spa) in pool return.
4. Brush all steps, walls and floor to the spa main drain.

THE FILTER
As water is effectively removed from the pool by the pump, it continues its re­circulation path back to the pool by passing through a water-filtering device. The filter is a device allowing "cleansed" water to pass through on its path back to the pool after trapping particulate matter from the water. In this manner, the pump and filter are daily "workhorses" helping to keep your water clean and Inviting.
The filter for your pool utilizes a white powdery material called "Diatomaceous Earth - D.E." to provide the filtering, or cleaning, characteristics of the filtering system. It is extremely effective, easy to operate, and will provide you with the cleanest water of any filtering device available.
As long as the pump is in operation, the filter continues to clean the water that passes through the system. The filters effectiveness is measured by a pressure gauge on top of the filter. As the filter gets filled with dirt, the pressure builds and the effectiveness of the system diminishes. Be sure to operate your system within parameters as specified by your dealer and/or manufacturer to insure the best results.
THE CLEANING SYSTEM
Your pool is equipped with an automatic pool cleaning system. It is designed to perform the majority of the cleaning of fine dirt and small particles of debris that normally get into swimming pools. Daily operation of this cleaner will help provide the necessary preventative maintenance to keep your pool looking clean and inviting. Your service technician will help you set up your cleaning system, making sure it is properly sized for your pool.
In addition to the automatic pool cleaning system, you will be provided with a complete set of pool tools for performing other preventative maintenance functions. One chore, which can provide excellent muscular toning benefits for the arms, chest and shoulders, is brushing the pool surface with the pole and brush provided. Frequent brushing helps insure a smoother plaster surface, reduces risk of staining and algae growth, giving you a cleaner pool and possibly a healthier body!
The surface has pores that collect dirt and will stain over a period of time. The pool cleaner has a tail whip designed to spray a flow of water across the surface of the pool to agitate and remove this dust. Although the cleaner is an integral part of your system, it does not replace the need for wall and pool surface brushing, as well as occasional manual vacuuming.
THE SANITIZING SYSTEM
The sanitizing system for your pool consists of an in-line chlorinator. The device supplements and maximize chlorine added to your pool on a daily basis. This does not eliminate the need to balance your pool water as chemical testing indicates. The chlorinator provides a basic level of chlorine on a regular basis. There will be times when additional chlorine will need to be administered as indicated by environmental conditions and water chemistry readings.
THE SPA SYSTEM
The hot water is introduced to the spa through a carefully engineered plumbing system. At the point of entry into the spa, the water passes through a special fitting referred to as a jet, which is actually a mixing chamber for water and air. While in the soaking phase of operation, the jet has primarily hot water passing through it. In the highly agitated state, air is mechanically forced into the mixing chamber through the jet resulting in water and air entering the spa together, producing a massaging sensation.
Each spa is custom fitted with a spa jet manifold assembly. Both the water and air feed lines come from the equipment area and connect into this spa jet manifold assembly. This type of assembly ensures an equal distribution of water and air through each individual jet while it is in operation.
The net result is, that when you get into your spa, you can truly relax in an environment that is operated economically, efficiently, and conveniently. Welcome to the wonderful world of aqua therapy.
THE HEATING SYSTEM
The heating system designed for your pool and spa features ease of operation, fuel economy, and superb effectiveness. It delivers more heat to your pool or spa water, per unit of fuel, than any other heater available today!
The easy to operate front controls, feature the popular Pool and Spa temperature setting your pool can be one temperature, the spa another. You can get the same temperature every time with a simple press of a button. The unique intermittent ignition provides you not only energy savings over millivolt systems, but also allows electronic ignition on demand. Depending upon the season, you can heat your spa in less time than it takes to cut the grass!
Each heater installation is equipped with a 2 filtration plumbing system providing maximum flow characteristics. Since the heater is rated at 125 gpm, it carries the highest water flow rating in the industry. This gives you excellent circulation back to the pool and maximum water action in the spa.. Your heated spa and/or pool will give you years of all season enjoyment for your family and friends.
THE AIR INJECTION SYSTEM
For pools with spas, a special air injection system is designed and installed to provide maximum spa water action on demand.
When the air injection system is activated, a powerful force of air is injected into the water, flowing through the spa jet mixing chambers. This causes the spa water to boil with activity and produces the strong massaging effects for sore muscles and aching joints. When the massaging is no longer needed, a simple touch of a button on the automated systems spa remote control or the flip of a switch located near the back door area of your home will return the spa action back to the comfortable soaking mode.
The positive therapy action obtained through mechanical air injection systems provides you with exacting control, flexibility, and convenience for your spa usage. Without leaving the comfort of your spa, the automated system provides a means to facilitate all aspects of your system.
The source of the water agitation is a UL approved air blower that is specifically designed for your spa.
THE LIGHTING SYSTEM
All pools are equipped with a special UL approved 500-watt underwater light and equipped with a thermal protector device (heat sensor). The highly reflective properties of the white plaster surface provide soft lighting features, which add a lighting ambiance to your pool area, as well as offering the safety of a well-lit pool. The pool light is supplied with four quick-change colored plastic lenses.
Spas are equipped with a UL approved 100-watt underwater light designed, engineered, and manufactured specifically for the hot water environment of spas. The spa light is supplied with two quick-change colored plastic lenses.
The lights can be turned on or off easily by the automated system or a set of mechanical switches which will be conveniently located near the back door area of your home. A ground fault circuit interrupter switch (GFCI) is added to provide maximum safety for your family from any possible dangers of electrical bleed off conditions. At times this GFCI switch may need to be reset.

Optional lighting can provided: dimmers for the pool and/or spa lights, low-voltage landscape lighting kits and/or a spot light at the equipment pad area. These can be controlled by the automated system or by time clocks or mechanical switches.

THE WATER FEATURE SYSTEM
Whether you have chosen aerators, fountains, lions heads, scuppers, sheer descents, waterfalls or any combinations thereof, all are dramatic additions to your pool environment. If you have chosen auxiliary pumps to run your water features, you can turn them on or off easily by the automated system or a set of mechanical switches which will be conveniently located. Without auxiliary pumps, your water feature will function whenever the filtering operation is on.
Diagrams

Below find a general pictorial diagram of for a quick reference guide:
The normal circulation of your pool requires that water be taken from the pool, pushed through the filtration system and returned to the pool.
The suction side of your pool only consist of two (2) skimmers and two (2) main drains (Pools with Spas, have two (2) spa drains). In the normal cycle, water is removed from the two (2) skimmers and the pool drains only. This is accomplished by having all 2-way valves open on the suction side and the 3-way valve positioned as shown in the diagrams above. Water is pushed through the filtration system and returned to the pool. In Pool with Spa, a spa fountain line is provided on the pool return line for water to be returned to the spa also.
The spa fountain line has two (2) purposes:
A.Provide chemically treated water into spa.

B.Provide an ambiance to the pool/spa area.

PUMP OPERATION
To Service The Pump:
A. Turn off pump.
B. Relieve pressure in the system.
C. Turn the clamp and lid in a counter-clockwise direction until it stops.
D. Remove basket and all debris. If the basket is cracked, it should be replaced.
E. Replace basket and fill the pump pot and volute up to the inlet port with water.
F. Clean the cover, cover 0-ring and sealing surface of the pump pot. Periodically grease the 0-ring with a Teflon or silicone lubricate.
G. Reinstall the lid by placing the clamp and the lid on the pot. Make sure the lid 0-ring is properly placed. Seat the clamp and lid then turn clockwise until the handles are horizontal.
H. Turn on pump.
I. Open the manual air relief valve on top of the filter
J. Bleed air from the filter until a steady stream of water comes out. Close the manual air relief valve  
If water does not circulate, repeat steps A. through G. making sure pump lid is seated snugly. And check that the water in pool is at proper level and all valves are in proper position.
FILTER OPERATION
To operate and maintain your diatomaceous earth IDE pool filter, follow these instructions
When your pool is initially filled, the filter will require frequent backwashing until the plaster curing process is completed and the water is sparkling clear. Your normal operating pressure (Normal Operating Pressure) for your filter. Backwash filter when the pressure gauge increases 5 lbs psi or greater than the Normal Operating Pressure.
INITIAL START-UP
A. Move valve handle to filter position.
B. Check the pump strainer pot to be sure it is full of water.
C. Replace pump lid.
D. Open-air bleeder valve on the filter top.
** WARNING **
Air entering filter and/or the filter unit not closed correctly can cause the tank top to blow off and could cause severe bodily injury and/or property damage.
E. Open all pool suction and return line valves. Stand clear of filter during the following operations.
F. Turn on pump. The tank will fill with water and expel air from the air bleeder. Close the air bleeder screw only after a steady stream of water comes out.
G. Remove the near skimmer lid.
 H. Put the recommended amount of diatomaceous earth (DE) into a bucket and add water. Continue to mix until a thick liquid is produced (similar in texture to pancake batter).
I. Pour slowly in the near skimmer. The DE will be drawn into the filter and deposited evenly upon the grid elements.
J. Now the filter is setup for maximum efficiency.
NOTE: Do not operate filter without DE for more than two minutes. Do not use more than the recommended amount of DE in your filter.
D.E. RECOMMENDATION
The amount of DE should be 1 pound for each 5 square feet of filter area or:
FILTER MODEL  POUNDS OF D.E.

24 Sq. Ft. 4 to 5 1 pound coffee cans
36 Sq. Ft. 6 to 7 1 pound coffee cans
48 Sq. Ft. 8 to 10 1 pound coffee cans
60 Sq. Ft. 10 to 12 1 pound coffee cans
72 Sq. Ft. 12 to 14 1 pound coffee cans
K. On a new pool installation, it will require approximately one week to obtain and maintain the water clarity of which your filter is capable. It is recommended to backwash the filter after initial pool clean up (approximately 48 hours of operation).
L. Be sure to note the operating pressure of the filter when it is clean and properly charged with DE. As the filter removes dirt from the pool, the pressure will gradually increase. As a guide, when the pressure has increased 5 psi from the initial reading, it is time to backwash the filter (approximately every 4 to 6 weeks).
Alternately, another method for determining when to backwash the filter is by judging a drop in the amount of water flowing from the filter by observing the flow from the inlet fittings in the wall of the pool or the height of the spa fountain. As a general rule, backwashing is needed when the flow rate becomes about 2/3 the rate when the filter is clean.

FILTER BACKWASH PROCEDURE
CAUTION: To prevent equipment damage and possible injury, turn off pump before changing valve position.
NOTICE: When backwashing with a separation tank, see special instructions (Page 61).
Two Position Slide Valve
A. Turn off pump.
B. Open all pool suction valves to allow for free flow of water.
C. Change backwash handle into backwash position.
1. If using Two-Position Slide Valve, raise handle to fully extended position.

2. If using Full Flow or Multi-port Valve, set to backwash position.
D. Stand clear of filter.
E. Turn on pump. This will circulate water backwards through the filter to flush DE cake and contaminants into the waste or the separation tank.
F. If system has a sight glass, backwash until water in glass runs clear (25 to 30 seconds).
G. If system does not have a sight glass:
1. Backwash 25 to 30 seconds.
H. Repeat steps 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 five times. Cycling is effective means to break up and flush out caked DE and contaminants from the filter.
I. Turn off pump.
J. Open air bleeder screw and release all pressure from tank and system.
K. Follow Initial Start-Up procedure above to restart system.
L. Compare pressure reading on filter gauge with reading recorded after initial start-up. The two readings should be very close; if not, breakdown the filter and perform a manual filter clean procedure.
NOTE: Do not operate filter without DE for more than two minutes. Do not use more than the  recommended amount of DE in your filter.  
Do not vacuum pool while backwashing filter. This will place debris inside the filter grids.  

The backwash procedure, at best, will only purge approximately 65to 70of the DE from the filter. The manufacturer recommends the filter be broken down and manually cleaned every 6 months to ensure proper filtration and water circulation. One of our service technicians can do this for you or show you how to do it the first time. The internal filter grids and parts are fragile and if handled incorrectly can be damaged beyond repair.
SEPARATION TANK (if applicable)

To Backwash Filter With Separation Tank
A. Turn off pump.
B. Set handle on backwash valve to backwash position.
C. Turn on pump and open air relief valve on separation tank lid, until air is expelled.
D. When water in sight glass is clear, turn off pump.
E. Set handle on backwash valve to filter position.
F. Open drain valve and air relief valve on separation tank to allow water to drain.
G. After draining, open lid clamp, remove lid and dirty bag. Empty the waste in trash and then rinse bag clean.
H. Replace bag, 0-ring, lid, and clamp.
I. Open drain valve and close return valve.
J. Follow Initial Start-Up Procedure above to restart system.
K. Compare pressure reading on filter gauge with reading recorded after initial start-up. The two readings should be very close; if not, breakdown of the filter and a manual filter clean procedure is required.
NOTE: Air relief valve should remain open at all times unless backwashing.

TIME CLOCK
The main circulation pump is wired directly to a automated system or through a mechanical time clock which can be set to turn on and off at specific times every day. The clock can be set by first adjusting the clock to correspond with the proper time and then setting the on and off times for the automated system or adding the on and off trippers (to start and stop the pump - silver tripper and black tripper, respectively).
The secondary pump motor used for the automatic pool cleaner is controlled by the automated system or its own time clock. Since this pump is fed by water from the main circulation pump, It should not turn on unless the main pump is on and in pool mode. Therefore, when setting the on and off times, be sure to set it to come on no sooner than one hour after the main pump is activated. Set it to turn off no later than one hour before the main pump is set to go off. The size of your pool, the foliage around your pool and the time of year will dictate the total number of hours that you will need to run your pool sweep (cleaner pump) on a daily basis.

SUGGESTED TIME CLOCK SETTINGS AND HOURS FOR A 15,000 TO 20,000 GALLON POOL:
Summer: Hours (Time Range) 8:00 AM - 8:00 PM
Main Pump 8 - 10 hours
Cleaner Pump 1 - 4 hours
Note: In the summer months, algae growth is the primary concern and you want your pool circulating and the chemicals moving around when the sun is out and the water temperature is high.
Winter: Hours (Time Range) 10:00 PM - 6:00 AM
Main Pump 5- 7 hours
Cleaner Pump 1 - 4 hours
Note: In the winter months, the possibility of freeze damage is the primary concern and you want your pool circulating when the temperatures are the coldest. Algae grows very slow when the sun does not erode the chemicals as quickly and the water temperature is colder.
NOTE: Do not operate cleaner while spa is operating. The cleaner pump will be starved of water and may burn up. This is not covered under your warranty.

FREEZE GUARD
The freeze guard is a safety system that is integrated with your control system to help prevent freeze damage to your pool and pool equipment. It is automatically activated when ambient air temperatures approach freezing, turning on the main circulation pump. The water circulating through the equipment helps prevent freezing of exposed equipment and the resulting damage caused by freezing.
Since ambient temperatures activate the freeze guard, the equipment will be under its control until the temperature rises to acceptable levels. The freeze guard is preset at the manufacturing plant and should not be adjusted by anyone but one of our service technicians.
NOTE: The freeze guard safety system turns on the main circulation pump. Be sure that all skimmer baskets and pump baskets are clean, pool filter backwashed, and water in pool is at the proper level. Otherwise, freezing conditions with poor water flow can still damage the pool and equipment.
At times your system could be running for extended periods/days, depending upon weather conditions. These extended periods will not harm the motor.
When temperatures get down in the low teens and lower, the freeze guard may not be enough protection. For added protections in reducing the chance of freeze damage, we recommend that you turn your pool heater on in the low position (approximately 60 degrees) and turn your pool pump on 24 hours per day. The pool heater does not function in freeze protection mode.
The warranty on a freeze guard is for the unit itself (not other equipment). The freeze guard is an electronic device and can fail like any other electronic piece of equipment. Please take the time each year to check the operation of your freeze guard the first time the temperature drops down.
AUTOMATIC CHLORINATOR
The automatic chlorinator installed at your equipment site is designed to provide you with convenience of proper sanitation automatically. The chlorine tablets added to the chlorinator dissolve slowly as filtered water passes over them, feeding controlled amounts of sanitizer equally throughout the pool and spa. This helps insure proper control of bacteria and algae without the inconvenience of daily chemical additions, as is required by some other methods.
Check your chlorinator weekly or as needed, to insure it contains the proper amount of tablets for your pool requirements so you can enjoy crystal clear, safe pool water. As the water temperature increases, the rate of tablets dissipation increases accordingly.
SUGGESTED CHLORINATOR SETTINGS AND # OF TABLETS USED:
Water Temperature Dial Setting Qty of Tablets
Spring months
(60 to 80 degrees) Low to Middle setting 1 tablet per 10,000 gallons - no more than 1 tablet greater
Summer months
(80 degrees and up) Middle to Highest setting 1 tablet per 10,000 gallons - no more than 1 tablet greater
Fall months
(60 to 80 degrees) Low to Middle setting 1 tablet per 10,000 gallons - no more than 1 tablet greater
 Winter months
(60 degrees or less) Highest setting no tablets maximum water flow through the chlorinator tube to prevent freeze damage
Note: During the winter months, the free available chlorine level only needs to be .5 ppm for algae control. As the temperatures drop and the sun is less intense, chlorine requirements are reduced and longer acting.
* Be sure to adjust setting to fit your pool requirements.*
VACUUMING THE POOL
A complete set of hand tools has been provided to allow you to hand vacuum your pool whenever needed. The operation of this system is simple to set up and the vacuum suction is extremely powerful. Be sure to follow the diagram of valve sets for your pool and instructions below to achieve the best results.
T0 VACUUM:
A. Assemble vacuum system on deck by attaching the telescoping pole to vacuum head and uncoiling and stretching the vacuum hose out.
B. Attach swivel end of vacuum hose to the vacuum head and attach vacuum adapter to opposite end of vacuum hose.

C. Prepare near skimmer to attach vacuum to and clean basket of debris.
D. Turn on main pump.
E. Close 3-way valves to main drain (Pool Only) or close 2-way to main drain (Pool with Spa).
F. Close 2-way valve to far skimmer.
G. Place vacuum head, pole, and hose into pool water next to near selected skimmer.
H. Submerge vacuum slowly, vertically forcing hose into pool, which helps fill hose with water, until entire hose is in the water and water comes out of the hose.
I. Quickly place vacuum hose with vacuum adapter i
J. Begin to vacuum by moving vacuum across walls and floor.
K. When finished, open valves to far skimmer and main drain.
L. Remove vacuum hose and adapter from skimmer.
M. Remove vacuum hose, head, and pole from pool.
N.  Clean all skimmer baskets and pump strainer basket.
0. Check filter pressure gauge: backwash if needed.

AUTOMATIC CLEANER
After the plaster has cured, the automatic cleaner is attached to the special wall fitting and put into operation.
It is important to keep the cleaner free from debris by frequently checking the bag and finger screen located in wall unit connection. If you allow your cleaner to operate for extended periods, loaded with debris, it may cause parts to wear out faster than normal
Replacement parts are available for your needs. Also note that our service technicians, are factory trained and authorized to work on your cleaner for regular maintenance, adjustments, or repairs as required.
SPA MODE OPERATION
Placing the spa into operation requires a few simple steps that will result in a pleasurable experience for your entire family. Below find a general pictorial diagram for a quick reference guide:
To Operate Spa:
1. Turn on main pump (be sure pool cleaner is off).
2. Rotate suction 3-way valve to spa position (spa drain).
3. Rotate return 3-way valve to spa position (spa return).
4. Turn on heater.

REGULAR MODE
In soaking mode of operation you merely wait for the appropriate temperature of spa water to be achieved, get into the spa and relax!
AIR INJECTED MODE
In the highly agitated mode, you merely turn on the air blower, after the temperature of the spa has reached desired levels, get into the spa and enjoy the massaging action on those aching muscles! Turn off the blower when you have finished.
NOTE: DO NOT OPERATE BLOWER FOR MORE THAN 30 MINUTES AT A TIME. THEN ALLOW COOLING DOWN FOR 10 MINUTES BEFORE TURNING ON AGAIN IN ORDER TO AVOID OVERHEATING.

COOL DOWN PERIOD
After you have finished using the spa, it is important that you turn off the heater and turn the pool equipment for at least 15 minutes to allow the heater to cool down. This will prevent excessive heat build up and potential damage to the filtration system. Be sure that all the valves are returned to normal operation after you have finished with the spa.

BALANCED WATER
Even with a well constructed swimming pool outfitted with the best equipment and the finest filtration and circulation system, much of the success in maintaining a safe, attractive and pleasant-to-swim-in pool depends on the timing and amount of chemical additions. Just because the water looks blue and clear does not mean that the water is balanced.
The interior of the pool cures 60in the first 30 days and remainder (40 cures in the next 10 to 12 months. The beauty and health of your pools interior surfaces is dependent on the proper maintenance of water chemistry. Therefore a large part of this section of the manual has been dedicated to water chemistry.
In the equipment section, some correlations have been drawn between the human body and your pool equipment to help illustrate the importance/function of the basic pool operation (i.e. Control System vs. The Brain, The Pool Pump vs. The Heart, The Pool Filter vs. The Kidneys and Liver, and The Plumbing Lines vs. The Arteries). The Pool Spa Structure and The Water is The Stomach the interior surface is the lining and the water is the fluid that passes through it.
The condition of the water has a dramatic impact on the appearance of the interior surfaces. There are two (2) components that affect the condition of the water:
The filtration (Pool Pump and Filter)
The food ingested (Chemicals)
It is important to start with balanced water. Take a sample of your water in a CLEAN plastic container to your retail pool center. The sample should be from the deep end of the pool, about 18 inches below the surface, away from the return fittings. Once your pool water is balanced, you can be assured that you are getting the most out of your chemical treatment program.
Proper maintenance of pool water, within normal pool parameters, reduces the need for specialty products to eliminate algae and discolorations.

A test kit has been provided to ensure the alignment of your pool water chemistry. Tests can be conducted for four components:
chlorine Residual  
pH Level  
Acid Demand  
Total Alkalinity
Regular and proper use of your test kit and appropriate chemical application will protect your pool surface, equipment and swimmers health. Test kits should not be exposed to prolonged sunlight, other pool chemicals or extreme temperature.
These are the primary chemicals that should be checked weekly. In reviewing the Proper Ranges of Water Chemistry chart below, there are some additional tests that should be done periodically. The initial cost of a test kit to test these other items as well as the yearly replacement of the reagents is cost prohibitive for most pool owners.

NOTE: PLEASE READ ALL LABELS CAREFULLY before adding anything to your pool water.
At this point, you are probably thinking that you need a degree in chemistry to take care of your pool. In actuality, you will use other people to do the legwork in providing you with the test results (our retail centers will give you the actual numbers). This will allow you to evaluate the condition of your water and directions on application of chemicals.
NOTE: Due to the gravity of the impact that water chemistry has on the appearance of your investment, please spend a little time in this area.
The discolorations/stains, deterioration, pitting and scaling of interior surfaces do not happen over night, but through long periods of neglect. These conditions, if not dealt with, will become visual over a period of time on the pool surface.

In an ideal situation, a good rule of thumb is to replace 1/3 of your pool water each year. The logic here is that these chemicals (Calcium, Cyanuric Acid, Total Dissolved Solids, Iron or Copper) levels that would be detrimental to your interior surface would never get high or cause algae problems. Yes, you do replace some of your water through evaporation and backwashing, but this is not enough to dilute these levels.
For your convenience, below is a liquid conversion table that can be used in conjunction with the chemical tables that follow: http://www.ipssadallas.com/opman.html

CHLORINE
The most commonly used disinfectant in swimming pools is chlorine in its natural state it is a gas. This gas is hard to handle and very dangerous. Combined with other elements, chlorine gas produces a safe, effective means of combating bacteria, algae and other organic wastes. There are several types of chlorine compounds, both organic and inorganic.
Inorganic Chlorine Not Stabilized
1. CHLORINE GAS gas; unstable, resulting in a rapid loss of sanitizing power.
2. CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE granular; will not dissolve completely in water, can contribute to a scaling condition.
3. SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE liquid chlorine; unstable, resulting in a rapid loss of sanitizing power.
Organic Chlorine Stabilized
1. DI CHLOR granular; fast dissolving.
2. TRI CHLOR tablet; solid form in various sizes, large and small sticks and rings.
Organic chlorines have built-in protection against the suns ability to take chlorine out of your pool. This insures you of continually having chlorine in your pool water.
When chlorine is first added to your pool, it must satisfy an initial demand. This simply means that you must destroy all bacteria, algae and organic wastes before maintaining a sufficient level of chlorine protection. This level is called your chlorine residual or free chlorine. A good level to maintain would be between 1.0. 3.0 ppm. Lower levels will not protect the swimmer and high levels will cause skin irritation as well as a waste of Costly chemicals.

Temperature, swimmer load, and debris carried into your pool by wind and rain, will all affect your chlorine level.
NOTE: The use of Chlorine Gas can void your plaster warranty. Chlorine gas is very corrosive with an extremely low pH (1.1). The life of your plaster can be cut from ½ to 2/3 as well as discolor the plaster surface. The problem lies with the proper balancing of the pool water after treatment, and the major swings in pH.
 

SHOCK THERAPY
Whenever people talk about shocking a pool, you can be sure they are not talking about electricity. Shocking a pool involves adding an extra dose of chlorine, over and above what is needed on a regular daily basis, to balance and sanitize the water.
Most suppliers advise owners to super chlorinate their pool every 7-14 days during the swimming season. Until you have experience with water chemistry, this is a good guideline; the importance of super chlorination can only be fully appreciated when the consequences of NOT doing so are experienced.
Sanitation is the key reason for super chlorinating; water is cleansed of algae, bacteria, dirt, swimmer residue and any other organic matter that may have entered the pool.
Determine the percentage of available chlorine from the label of the product you are using (Cal Hypo is 65and Di-Chlor is 90. Use the chart below  to determine the appropriate amount of chlorine for shocking.
Note: A typical shock to just raise the chlorine level from zero, not an excessively algae covered pool, would be approximately ½ this dosage (I.E. pool with 20,000 gallons and using Cal-Hypo-65available chlorine = 7.7# per chart above/2 = 3.75# approximately.
With experience, a connection between the recommended chlorine application and a conversely low or marginal chlorine reading will indicate a deficiency of chlorine to address the algae, bacteria, dirt, swimmer wastes and any other organic matter present in the pool water.


AT POOL START UP. Even when covered during the winter, pools will accumulate leaves, twigs, dirt and other debris. Super chlorination helps burn up this organic matter and balances the water added.
FOLLOWING A COLD SPELL. When you have left the pool covered or un-circulated for an extended period of time, it is always a good idea to treat the water. Under these circumstances, pH tends to drift; water goes out of balance and algae may tend to multiply.
WHEN CHLORINE TESTS WEAK. There is no substitute for testing chlorine and pH on a DAILY basis. When chlorine residual drops to zero or below, pool water needs an extra shot of chlorine.
WHENEVER POOL WATER IS LESS THAN CRYSTAL CLEAR. This condition is generally the first visual sign that the water needs a boost of chlorine. If you cannot see the bottom clearly or water appears the least bit cloudy, the water chemistry is out-of-balance or algae are starting to grow. Shocking is the fastest way to restore water clarity.

NOTE: The cloudiness in this case could also be a result of a damage pool filter or poor circulation (pool filter may need to be backwash or broken down and the elements clean).
AFTER A HEAVY WIND OR RAIN. Summer storms introduce dirt, leaves and bacteria into the pool requiring an extra shot of chlorine to sanitize and neutralize these materials.
FOLLOWING A LARGE NUMBER OF SWIMMERS. A heavy swimming load means extra body oils, perspiration, suntan lotions, ammonia, dirt and grass clippings in the pool. Bathing suits previously worn in lakes can introduce algae into the water. Treatment is needed to sanitize wastes and ensure that algae are eliminated.
FOLLOWING YOUNG SWIMMERS. You cannot control children who are not pool trained so sanitize with an extra dose of chlorine.
WHEN WATER TEMPERATURES ARE HIGH. Whenever the pool thermometer climbs above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, water requires frequent treatment; bright sunlight quickly burns up maintenance levels of chlorine.
WHEN CHLORINE SMELLS STRONGLY ALL AROUND THE POOL. This strong odor is caused by chloramines that form where free chlorine is insufficient. Before you treat, adjust pH into the 7.4 -7.6 range. The dosage you use to SUPER CHLORINATE is different from that added on a daily basis.
Whenever SUPER CHLORINATING or SHOCK TREATING your pool is required, introduce the treatment AFTER SUNDOWN. This prevents chlorine from being destroyed by ultraviolet rays.
Make Sure you run your filter pump at least two to six hours after treatment. This will insure that the chemicals are diluted and prevent the possibility of chlorine sitting in a concentrated from on the plaster.

The term pH is used to express the alkalinity or the acidity of pool water. On a scale of 0 to 14, with 0 being acidic and 14 being alkaline, 7 is neutral. The ideal level for a plaster pool is 7.4 to 7.8. A low pH reading, indicating an acidic condition, will result in damage to the pool interior surface and equipment and will cause accelerated chlorine dissipation. A high pH reduces the operation level of chlorine and can cause cloudiness, scaling, algae and bacteria growth. Imbalance of pH will cause swimmers eye irritation. Use MURIATIC ACID to control high levels of pH. Use pH PLUS or Soda Ash to control low levels of pH.
TOTAL ALKALINITY
Total alkalinity is the measure of pH regulating minerals that act as buffering agents in your water. In plaster pools, under normal conditions, a measurement of 80-120 ppm is ideal. Total alkalinity should be adjusted before pH. ALKALINITY PLUS or Sodium Bicarbonate will raise total alkalinity; MURIATIC ACID will lower your total alkalinity.
WATER HARDNESS
Another aspect of balanced water has to do with hardness. Certain metals need to be present in pool water to satisfy the waters aggressive need for metals. This is measured in terms of calcium and magnesium. If this demand is not met, your pool water will seek out its needs, attacking and corroding your equipment and pool walls. To correct for low hardness levels a CALCIUM HARDNESS INCREASER is used. Follow the label directions. The desired range is 200 to 250 ppm in plaster pools.
If high levels of hardness persist, other problems are encountered. Cloudy water and scaling of your pool walls and equipment can occur. To help keep high hardness levels in line, a STAIN, SCALE or METAL CONTROL is used.
The only means of decreasing the calcium hardness is to dilute with fresh water.
Click Here to view charts in a larger view and for a printer friendly version! "requires Adobe Acrobat Reader .pdf Format, please wait for system to open file, it may take a few seconds for the file to load.
 
BALANCED WATER NEEDS TO BE STABILIZED
Chlorine is susceptible to rapid decomposition from the suns ultra violet rays. In order to improve chlorines active life and reduce this wasteful loss, the addition of CHLORINE CONDITIONER (cyanuric acid) is recommended. A 30 to 50 ppm is recommended to maintain the proper level. Follow the directions on the label precisely. This treatment is usually necessary only once when in conjunction with stabilized chlorine.
The only means of decreasing cyanuric acid is to dilute with fresh water.
METALS
Iron, copper and magnesium can enter your pool through various sources copper based algaecides, the erosion of metal components of your pool equipment or the pool interior fixtures and make up water. Sometimes the mere addition of one of the controlling pool chemicals previously mentioned above will cause these metals to come out of solution and stain your pool. Most poolside test kits will not test for metals. This is why it is so important to take a water sample in and let your retail pool center balance your pool water. The use of a sequestering agent should be used to prevent the precipitation of these metals on the pool surface.
ALGAE CONTROL
Algae comes in several forms. Algae are single cell plants containing chlorophyll and are one the hardiest and most widespread living organisms on this plant. It can be introduced by rain, wind or even a swimmers swimming suit. Algae requires warm water, sunlight and carbon dioxide to grow and pool water has the potential of providing just such an environment.
There are three (3) main categories of algae found in pool water:
Green Algae usually floating algae, but sometimes clings to walls. Pool water becomes turbid with a green growth that renders the pool uninviting and dangerous to use by making it difficult to see the bottom of the pool. Before green coloration appears, sides of the pool have a slippery feel, water becomes hazy and exhibits a high chlorine demand.
Mustard (Yellow) Alage appears as a yellow powdery deposition on the pool, usually on the shady side. Once established, it is chlorine-resistant and can exist in the presence of 3 to 5 ppm Free Chlorine.
Black (blue-Green) Algae evident by the formation of dime to quarter size black (or blue-green) spots, tenaciously adhering to the pools surfaces. Black algae forms a layered structure where the first layers, which may be killed by chlorine, protect under layers form further destruction. Black algae, like mustard algae, is also chlorine-resistant.
When the sanitizer levels are allowed to drop or deplete, algae spores (seeds) will germinate. Within 12 hours, a pool can be completely inundated with green algae.
As with any problem, the best cure is prevention. It is recommended to use a good algaecide, along with super chlorination, to control algae. Follow the directions on the label. The algaecide will work in conjunction with the chlorine to destroy the algae and help prevent reoccurrences.
HANDLING and STORAGE OF POOL CHEMICALS
All chlorine bearing compounds are oxidizing agents and can cause FIRE or EXPLOSIONS if they come in contact with organic compounds such as household cleaners and paint materials STORE CHEMICALS APPROPRIATELY.
Chlorine is irritating to the skin and eyes; therefore, contact should be avoided. Do not inhale fumes. Wash hands thoroughly after handling any chemicals.
Do not smoke when around chemicals. Some products have explosive fumes.
Chlorine compounds should be stored in a cool and dry place, out of sunlight, and certainly out of reach of children and pets.
Chemicals used to control pH such as dry acids are considered dangerous and contact should be avoided.
All labels related to pool chemicals should be read carefully and strictly adhered to. Do not exceed dosages recommended; more is not better and can be dangerous to swimmers.
Keep chemical containers closed when not in use.
Empty containers should be disposed of immediately. Never allow them to remain in the storage area.
Do not mix ANY pool chemicals together unless package instructions direct this. Add chemicals to pool ONE AT A TIME.

Measuring cups should be plastic, glass or enamel. Each chemical should have a designated cup. DO NOT USE CHEMICAL MEASURING CUPS FOR ANY OTHER MATERIAL.
Only prescribed chlorine cartridges should be used. Possible explosions can occur if these cartridges are refilled with the wrong chemicals.
Automatic chlorinators should not be installed in un-vented rooms. NEVER ADD GRANULAR CHLORINE TO AUTOMATIC CHLORINATORS THIS IS A VERY EXPLOSIVE SITUATION.
All spills should be washed thoroughly with water. Avoid pouring spillage into re-useable containers as this could result in fire.
Be familiar with first aid instructions on all chemical containers. Have emergency medical and poison control center phone numbers handy at all times.
Always add chemicals to water NEVER THE REVERSE.
Do not store chemicals in your garage, as the fumes released can cause rust to build up on metallic items in your garage (I.E. car bumpers, garage door tracks, tools, shelves, Etc.).

  Trouble Shooting problems. PUMP
P1  Check position of valves. Position for normal operation.
P2 Leak at suction side of pump. Call for repairs.
P3  Water level too low.
P4  Skimmer weir (door) stuck.
P5  Leak at pump lid. Remove, clean and lubricate O-ring,re-seal.
P6  Dirt in start winding of motor. Call for repairs.
P7  Motor burned out. Call for repairs.
P8 Circuit breaker tripped. Reset and check if tripping recurs.
P9  Pump impeller malfunctioning. Call for repairs.
P10 Bearings worn out. Call for repairs.
P11 Check time clock.
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You Tube.Spa Repair  Service  Pumps Motors  Salt  Systems  Concrete Tanks 
 Chemical Applications  Meter Inspectors Commerci  al  Residential Backwashing  Valve  Members   Service Association

 Title 1   1 Pool Leak Detection Expert Houston David Baker Finds leaks  10 words,    51 characters.
Tags 1
 Pool Leak Detection Experts. BrianNelson123 David Baker Swimming pools Repair  10 words 68 characters

Description : Pool Leak Detection Experts Houston David Baker Finds leaks when other pool inspectors can not find the leaks Learn all about your pool from my website http://www.PoolLeakDetectionExperts.com . Call David Baker at 713-805-7049 for help See other websites for BrianNelson123 at http://www.NelsonIdeas.com Your pool will naturally lose some water to evaporation, some to splashout and some to backwash wastewater. You may also gain water from rainfall. My rule of thumb is that if you're routinely adding more than two inches of water to your pool per week, you may have a leak. (that is worth spending some time and money to repair)
Pools are meant to be watertight, of course, but sealants will deteriorate, while other parts of your pool shift and settle, or just plain wear out. Pools can leak through any of the fittings or accessories, plumbing or even right through the shell. It is important to repair leaks, not only to save water, heat and chemicals, but also to prevent undermining pool structural components, and washing away fill dirt.
Leak detection is a highly specialized branch of the industry.
If you suspect a leak; look at the following things before calling for service:
Is the pool leaking only with the equipment on? This may indicate a pressure side (return) leak. With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the pressure side is...under pressure. This can open up small drips into spraying gushers. Check the waste or backwash line for water running all the time. One inch of your pool water can equal 500 gallons.
Is the pool leaking only with the equipment off? This usually indicates a suction side leak. With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the suction side is under vacuum; air can be drawn in through otherwise leaking voids. You may notice air in the pump basket (if you have a clear lid), air bubbling out of the return lines or air repeatedly built up inside the filter tank. Use tape or a pencil to mark water levels. Is the pump basket lid on tight with a good, lubed o-ring?
Does the pool leak all the time? This does not rule out leaks in the plumbing, but turns a suspicious eye on the shell of the pool, looking for cracks in the plaster or tears in the vinyl. Look closely at the tile line, and look real closely inside of the skimmer(s). The most common leak we fix is a separation between the plastic skimmer and the concrete pool. This is easily fixed with some pool putty. If you see something that looks like a crack, drop some of your pH indicator test reagent near it with pump shut off and water still. See if the dye is sucked into the crack.
Under water lights can and do leak. Especially the conduit that runs from the light niche to the junction box. Filling the opening of the conduit, in the back of the light niche with putty, silicone or caulk is a way to fix this problem.
Are there leaks at the equipment pad? Look closely at the filter, pump, heater and valving. Check the ground for moisture. Turn the pump on and off, looking closely for spraying water when the pump is turned off.
Does the water seem to stabilize at any particular level? You may be able to close the skimmer valve and allow the water level to drop below the skimmer. If it keeps going, we can rule out the skimmer (although there can always be more than one leak). The underwater light is a common leak source. If the water stabilizes, dye test around this level very carefully. Look for small debris which may have been sucked into the crack or void. This is a good indication of a leak.
Are there any wet areas around the pool? Take a walk around the pool's edge, and between the pool and the equipment pad. Check for wet soil and eroded areas.
Is your pool a vinyl liner? If so, there are special considerations. Look for sinkholes where sand under the liner may have washed away. Look for tears or separations around all fittings: skimmer, returns, cleaner line, etc. Pay close attention to steps and corners, where the liner may be stretched more than normal. If an animal had the misfortune to fall in your pool, you may notice claw marks (tears) just below the water line. Spending time under water with a mask may be required to find a small leak in the liner. When liners become old, they may have many pinhole leaks. There can always be more than one leak
Unsure of your evaporation rate? Place a bucket of water beside the pool and mark both. After 24 hours, check the loss of both. If the pool loses more, then there's a leak.
Prices for leak detection and repair will vary widely. Of course charges will be lower with your help uncovering the facts (see above) needed to determine the leaks location. . Higher prices will be realized for below ground work, however many leaks are fixed within one hour. Many pools leak in more than one area, so monitoring is important after any repair is made. There may be additional charges for cutting & replacing concrete and for SCUBA work.

 Chemical Applications Water Conservation Meter Inspectors Commerci  al  Residential Backwashing  Valve  Members   Service Association

 Youtube no. 1 is 59 megs.  No. 1 is 89 mbs   13 words 101 characters  1 Fiberglass Structures Reasonable Prompt Service Experienced IPSSA Residential Backwashing Valve Members Service  

 1 Fiberglass Structures Reasonable Prompt Service Experienced IPSSA Residential Backwashing Valve Members Service

Youtube 2 Ttlel   2 DE Filter Pool Leak Detection Experts Houston David Baker
 

Description : 2 This video is about Diatomaceous Earth better known as DE when used as a swimming pool Filter by the Filter Pool Leak Detection Experts Houston whose website is http://www.PoolLeakDetectionExperts.com/ Important topics found on that website are Swimming Pool & Spa Leak Detection Expert David Baker who Can Repair, Pools, Service, Pumps, Motors, Salt Systems, Waterfalls, Concrete Tanks, Fiberglass Structures, Call David Baker at 713-805-7049 for help with your In Ground or Above Ground Pools, Reasonable Prices, Prompt Service, Experienced Experts, Chemical Applications, Water Conservation, Meter Inspectors, Commercial, Residential, Backwashing, Valve Positions, They are Members of the IPSSA Service Association
A small leak from your pool can add up to big dollars spent on repairs on both your pool and your home. You can lose money in higher water bills, extra chemicals needed, stress to pool equipment, and underground erosion. Diatomaceous Earth is critical to cleaning your pool. Leak Detections. We perform a full leak detection on your pool to ensure that we find all leaks. We pressure test the lines at 20 P.S.I. and use advanced ultrasound and helium equipment to pin point your problem. Our company offers a full range of services from plaster repair to new equipment installation. We also do conversions to salt systems which saves you time and money. Please contact us with your specific question. We Look forward to exceeding your expectations. Owned and Operated by David Baker 713-805-7049
Our company was established in 1985. We have successfully served the needs of our customers in Houston and surrounding areas for 21 years. We maintain 125 residential pools through Mediterranean Pools as well as a full service repair division. Our goal is to keep the fun in your aquatic recreations and leave the worries to us. We are members of IPSSA Houston Chapter. IPSSA helps you feel comfortable with who is in your backyard by being the Gateway to both pool and spa professionals. Formed in 1988, they represent the best most trained reliable companies available. See the membership directory below. You can learn all about your pool on our website http://www.poolleakdetectionexperts.com/

Tags: Filter Material Swimming Pool Diatomaceous Earth Chemical Applications Water Conservation Meter Inspectors IPSSA DB

Youttube 2   is 59 mbs. Tags  14 words 105 characters. DE Filter Material Swimming Pool Diatomaceous Earth Chemical Applications Water Conservation Meter Inspectors  DavidJBaker@Comcast.net

at: http://www.PoolLeakDetectionExperts.com     ud 09/12/2009 11:09 AM -0500  Bookmark this page now!